How to Read Your OIR-B1-1802 Wind Mitigation Report
You paid for a wind mitigation inspection, the inspector handed you a PDF, and now you’re staring at six pages of boxes, codes, and acronyms that may as well be in another language.
That form is the OIR-B1-1802 — the standard wind mitigation form every Florida homeowners insurance carrier uses. Once you know how to read it, you can tell at a glance which credits your home already qualifies for, which ones you’re leaving on the table, and which upgrades would actually move the needle on your premium.
This guide walks the form section by section, in the same order the inspector fills it out. By the end, you’ll be able to pull up your own report and know exactly what it says about your home.
What the Form Actually Is
The OIR-B1-1802 wind mitigation report form is created and maintained by the Florida Office of Insurance Regulation. Every licensed inspector in the state uses this exact form, because every carrier in the state accepts this exact form. Think of it as the common language between you, your inspector, and your insurance company.
It has seven main questions, each tied to a feature of your home that affects how it holds up in high winds. Every question has a set of answer choices — usually A through E, sometimes just A through C — ordered from weakest to strongest. The inspector checks one box per question.
Your carrier then translates those boxes into discounts on the wind portion of your premium. Most homeowners land somewhere between 10% and 40% off. A smaller number of homes hit the full 45%.
Page 1: Property and Inspector Info
The first page of the OIR-B1-1802 form covers your name, the property address, year built, square footage, and the inspector’s license details. You can’t change anything here — but two things are worth a look.
Year built. Make sure it matches the property appraiser’s records exactly. If the form says 1985 and your record says 2003 (because the original home was torn down and rebuilt), the carrier may apply the wrong code year and overcharge you.
Inspector qualifications. Florida only allows seven types of professional to complete this form — home inspector, building inspector, general contractor, building code official, engineer, architect, or Certified Building Code Administrator. The form notes which one applies. If a carrier ever rejects your report, a license-type mismatch is sometimes the quiet reason why.
The Seven Questions on the Form
These run in the same order on every wind mitigation report. Each question has a set of answer choices ordered weakest to strongest. The credit you receive depends on the box your inspector checks.
Question 1: Building Code
This asks when your home was built or substantially renovated, and which Florida Building Code applies.
- A — Built to the 2001 FBC or later (the standard in HVHZ counties like Miami-Dade and Broward)
- B — Built to the 1994 SFBC, or the 2002 FBC outside the HVHZ
- C — Unknown or unable to verify
A is best, C is worst. If your inspector marked C but you know the home was permitted after 2002, dig up the permit and ask for a revised report.
Question 2: Roof Covering
What’s on your roof, and whether it meets current code.
- A — All roof covers meet 2001 FBC or Miami-Dade product approval standards
- B — All covers meet 1994 SFBC standards
- C — Non-FBC-compliant covers (older shingles, metal, tile)
- D — Reinforced concrete roof deck
A and D earn the best credit. The catch is documentation — the inspector needs a permit, a product approval number, or a manufacturer label on the shingle wrapper. Photos of the roof alone don’t prove compliance.
If your roof was replaced after 2002 but the wind mitigation report form shows C, ask why. Usually it’s because the inspector couldn’t verify the product approval. Track it down through your roofer or the permit office and request a revision.
Question 3: Roof Deck Attachment
How the plywood under your shingles is nailed to the trusses. The answer choices step through nail size and spacing — 8d common nails at progressively tighter spacing (6 inches along the edge and 12 in the field, then 6/12, then 6/6) — plus a reinforced concrete deck option and a catch-all “other” that generally means weaker.
Tighter nail spacing means better credit. Most pre-2002 homes fall in the A–B range unless a recent reroof renailed the deck closer.
Question 4: Roof to Wall Attachment
This is the biggest line item on the whole OIR-B1-1802 form — the connection between your trusses and your top plate.
- A — Toe nails (just two or three nails driven at an angle)
- B — Clips (small metal brackets)
- C — Single wraps (a strap over one side of the truss)
- D — Double wraps (a strap on both sides)
- E — Structural anchor (steel-to-steel, common in concrete construction)
The credit gap between toe nails and a structural anchor on a typical Florida home can run over $1,000 a year. If you’re toe-nailed and living in a hurricane-prone area, retrofitting to clips or single wraps often pays for itself in three to five years.
One practical note: the inspector has to verify each connection from the attic. If part of the attic is blocked, they may have to mark the home down for what they can’t see. Clear the attic and check that the lights work before the visit.
Question 5: Roof Geometry
The shape of your roof.
- A — Hip roof (no gables, or less than 10% of the perimeter is non-hip)
- B — Flat roof
- C — Other (gable, complex shapes)
A is best, C is worst — and this one you can’t change without rebuilding the roof. If you’re shopping for a home, know that the difference between a hip and a gable roof can be a four-figure annual swing on your premium.
Question 6: Secondary Water Resistance
Whether a self-adhered membrane was applied to the roof deck before the underlayment. The choices are simple: A for yes, B for no, C for unknown.
This is one of the most commonly missed credits, because the membrane is hidden under the shingles. After the fact, the only way to prove it is on paper — a permit that specifies SWR, the roofer’s invoice, or photos from the install.
So if your roofer told you they laid peel-and-stick under the shingles but the inspector marked B or C, ask for a letter confirming what went down and resubmit it.
Question 7: Opening Protection
Here’s the big one — the credit you can most directly control through home upgrades.
- A (Hurricane) — All openings protected with impact-rated products meeting Miami-Dade large-missile standards
- B (Basic) — All openings protected to standard Florida Building Code (small missile or basic shutter)
- C (None) — One or more openings unprotected
- X (Other) — A mix that doesn’t fit the standard categories
- N (Not verified) — The inspector couldn’t confirm the rating on one or more openings
The grade is set by your weakest opening. Impact windows on every opening except one bathroom that still has the original single-pane? Your home rates as C. Not A. Not even B.
That’s where a partial upgrade quietly costs people money. Before you spend $20,000 on impact windows, make sure you can cover every opening. If the budget won’t stretch that far, bundling accordion shutters on the remaining openings is often the smarter play — it locks in the full credit for a fraction of the cost of going all-impact.
It’s exactly the kind of combination we set up on South Florida homes all the time: impact windows where they’re seen and used most, cost-effective shutters everywhere else. Done right, the combo job can save up to 50% versus going all-impact while still moving your rating to A.
To award the credit, the inspector reads the manufacturer label on each piece of glass or shutter and matches it against the Florida Product Approval database or a current Miami-Dade NOA. If labels are missing or unreadable, you may need to supply the original permit packet or the manufacturer’s spec sheet.
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The Photos Page
Most wind mitigation reports close with several pages of photos — roof-edge close-ups, attic shots of truss connections, window and garage-door labels, and the exterior of every elevation.
If your insurer rejects the form, this is the first page to review. Carriers often want a clear shot of the manufacturer label on every protected opening. If a label was missing during the inspection, you may get partial credit instead of full credit until it’s documented.
Keep both the PDF and a backup. You’ll need to resubmit it if you switch carriers, and it expires after five years.
What to Do Once You Have It
Send the wind mitigation report PDF straight to your insurance agent and ask for written confirmation that every available credit has been applied to your policy. Switching carriers? Send it to the new agent at quote time — some won’t even quote you without it.
If anything looks off, especially on questions 4, 6, or 7 where the credits are largest, push back. A revised report is usually free when the inspector missed something or marked a category they couldn’t verify.
Then take an honest look at the boxes you got marked down on. If two or three are upgradeable through reasonable work — renailing the deck at your next reroof, adding impact windows or shutters, upgrading the garage door — the math on those projects looks a lot better once you factor in savings that repeat year after year.
What Changed in the April 2026 Revision
Florida updated the OIR-B1-1802 in April 2026. If you’re holding a report from before then, it stays valid for the full five years from your inspection date — you don’t need a fresh one just because the form changed. But any inspection done after the revision uses the new format, which is more detailed in a few important ways.
Update:
The current version is OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26). Any inspector you hire today should be using this form. If yours hands you a copy with an older revision date in the footer, ask why.
Here’s what’s actually different on the new form:
- Two new questions up front. The form now captures your Region (based on ASCE 7-22 design windspeed — HVHZ, ≥140 mph, 130-139 mph, or under 130 mph) and your Roof Slope (≥6:12 or less). Neither costs you a credit on its own, but both shape how the rest of the form is scored.
- Roof-to-wall attachment got more specific. Each tier — clips, single wraps, double wraps — now has a documented uplift capacity attached to it (386, 535, and 891 lbs respectively for the engineered-fastener path). There’s also a new option I: “Connection(s) not installed as intended,” which lets the inspector flag straps that were put in wrong. Homes that quietly got credit on an older form may not get the same rating next time.
- Secondary water resistance is broken out by method. Instead of just yes/no/unknown, the form now lists four qualifying options: fully adhered polymer-modified bitumen (ASTM D1970), taped seams with self-adhering flashing tape, a double layer of felt or synthetic with no tape, or spray foam. If your roofer used one of these, the new form gives you a cleaner way to prove it.
- Opening protection is now a matrix. Glazed openings (windows, garage doors, skylights, glass block) and non-glazed openings (entry doors, solid garage doors) are scored separately, then combined into sub-ratings like A.1, A.2, or A.3. The headline rule still applies — your weakest opening sets your grade — but a non-impact entry door or garage door can now drag a fully shuttered home into a lower sub-tier. If you’ve added impact windows recently, double-check that your garage and front doors are pulling their weight.
- Roof covering documentation is tighter. The new form asks for the permit application date or a current FBC/Miami-Dade product approval number and the year of installation, for every covering type on the roof. Generic “yes it’s compliant” answers don’t fly anymore. Pull your permit packet before the inspection.
- Spray foam is officially recognized. Both roof deck attachment and SWR now include spray foam as a qualifying option (with a 110 PSF uplift threshold for the deck side). If you had foam applied along your rafter-deck intersections, mention it before the inspector climbs into the attic.
For most homeowners, the takeaway is simple: the new form rewards good documentation more than ever. Permits, product approval numbers, photos from past reroofs, and labels on every protected opening will get you more credit than a confident-sounding “yes it’s hurricane rated.” If you have an inspection coming up, spend an afternoon pulling that paperwork together. It usually pays for itself many times over.
Frequently Asked Questions
No. Florida law requires a licensed inspector from the approved list to complete it. A self-completed form gets rejected by every carrier.
Five years from the inspection date. After that, you need a new one.
Contact them directly, hand over any supporting documentation you have (permits, product approvals, photos), and ask for a revised report. If they won’t budge, you can hire a different inspector for a second opinion.
No. The OIR-B1-1802 only touches the wind portion of your homeowners policy. Flood is a separate policy with separate underwriting.
Only if you submit a new inspection showing weaker results, or your carrier audits the report and finds an error. You’re not required to submit a worse report — if your home hasn’t changed, your original credits stay applied until the form expires.
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